Technicolour stripes are the first sight to take in at the TikTok Show Space just off Bond Street where Labrum is showing their SS22 collection The Sound of Movement.
As I move through the venue, my sense of smell is activated as a sweet scent wafts down the stairways leading to the Runway room. In the illuminated room is a range of percussion instruments and guitars that indicate the show will start off with a bang, as musical performances have become a customary opening scene for Labrum’s presentations.
Known for telling the untold stories of Africa through their collections, for SS22 The Sound of Movement champions the culture and style brought over to Britain by Caribbean and African migrants, particularly during the 70s.
A towering head wrap makes an appearance before the model does as the first look, a monochromatic stone grey suit with matching head wrap, is revealed. The following looks embody Labrum’s utilitarian style fused with British tailoring. Hand-drawn, illustrative prints depict Sierra Leonean village life with another monochromatic suit, this time in a deep, vibrant red with a motif of a tribal mask and footwear provided by Dr. Martens.
There is a playful whimsy to the collection, beautiful wax prints, and signature exaggerated layered sleeves, that featured in Labrum’s AW21 collection, on a macintosh style coat. Colour and layering is also used to give the collection dimension and life, elements which also evoke the style of Caribbean and African migrants.
Long-time friend of Labrum, artist Yinka Illori designed the set for the show commenting “The set design for the show was inspired by the layered richness of the woven fabrics presented in Labrum’s new collection. In this installation you will see 15 stools that have been sandwiched together to mimic the construction of the cotton. The stools combine with immersive motion graphics that will take you on a joyous journey while you watch the presentation.”
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